Wednesday, June 30, 2010

'All villages end in the mountain'

That's what a long time Moshi resident told me when I was asking about the geography of the region.

The Mountain, in a real sense, gives life to the town of Moshi and the region. It gives water to the town ie all the rain run off, regulates the local climate and helps the local economy with the steady stream of tourists and would be mountaineers. According to Maasai belief, Enkai (ie god) lives on Kilimanjaro where he dispenses wealth, rain and fine weather. I have yet to confirm this.

From a day to day perspective, the Mountain is 4/5 times shrouded in cloud and all you can usually see behind the town is a steadily rising green and brown patchwork of villages, farmland and cornfields slowly rising and ending hazily in cloud. But then occasionally you'll get the odd time (usually in the morning or night) when BAM suddenly there's this big brown/black brooding thing with a snow top hanging over the town. And you remember, 'oh yeah, cool, I live near Mount Kilimanjaro'.

This morning, was a quick breakfast, get on the bikes, feel tired, can't be bothered with it today sorta morning, then as we started coasting down the road to work BAM behind us was a beautiful clear view of the Mountain. It does raise the spirits to see it.

Wifey and I have paid a deposit on a 6 day assault on Kili on the Machame route, commencing December 20th. So that means Christmas on the roof of Africa! We had planned on hitting the summit for World AIDS Day for some publicity for our NGO but it was more expensive to do it then. I'm sure I can still do some public relations work on the summit with flags etc. Just hope Santa can find me...

The Machame route which starts on the south western side of the Mountain is one of the tougher routes but also one of the more scenic. I gather there is a rock wall here and there to clamber up vertically. I have plenty of time to train (ulp).


(Beware of strange mountains lurking outside properties and peering in)

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

In sickness and in health

Franatee and I visited a colleague who is convalescing in a large local hospital. The hospital was sadly all too full. Patients sitting, standing, lying on the grass, milling at the front of the building, crammed two a piece on stretchers in hallways...

Two white people come straight from work in Wellington-esque work suits look like astronauts from another planet wandering the constricted, confused hallways. Our workmate was really touched to see us.

I hate hospitals.

Sunday, June 27, 2010

The Dougshank Redemption

Somehow the wife cajoled me to do an hour uphill run with her on Sunday. I'm destroyed, my knees are gone. Its humiliating to have locals laughing at you from the side that 'mke wangu' (your wife) is trailing far ahead of your panting, gasping hide. Still, feel better for it and there were nice views as we trotted towards the hilly outskirts of town.

We have a couple of fresh faced students with us from Cornell university (ie in the States) with us for 4 weeks. Its pretty funny how grizzled Franatee and I feel now at the 3 month mark as the new 'inmates' come in. Africa, as always, is extremely enriching, but it can also be damn tiring and frustrating...it has its own pace and rhythm. A lot of behaviours, systems, helps we take for granted in the office environment back home are simply alien here... Pole Pole (slowly, slowly)

Still, making some gains. Just want to make sure we leave behind some sustainable skills and tools. At least I am personally developing...look how far I've come-

(South Africa circa 2008)


(Tanzania, circa two days ago)


Roaw!

Monday, June 21, 2010

'Taking a break here, Boss'

Have we really been here 3 months already? It's going fast. With volunteering, like prison, you only do two days: the day you go in and the day you come out.

'Going back to work now, Boss'



Update-today we walked past a real life chain gang on a lunch break. Guys in orange shirts in the hot noon sun clearing vegetation while guards watched. We said hi, they asked for smokes, we declined as I don't think the guards would have been too impressed with muzungu presents...

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Dat was a good weekend

Franatee had arranged to go into Arusha Saturday to pick up our volunteering allowance and also have her hair done, with a friend, by an ex-pat hair dresser (who just happens to be originally from Auckland). While she was going there I was keen to strike out alone and check out a waterfall near the foothills of Kili about 50km away by daladala (minibus). However, after being mercilessly mocked by my wife as a girly man who wants to sit under a waterfall alone and write poetry, I succumbed to marital bullying and went with my wife to Arusha...no waterfall for me.

The hairdresser was situated in this massive colonial style coffee plantation, adjacent to a rugby field where a motley gaggle of white ex-pat folks watched teams playing. While the ladies had their hair done, I hung with my mate John by the field had beer in hand watched Mauritius limbering up for a rugby match with Kenya. A sound system was booming out some of the worst soft music I have heard in Africa yet. You cannot play Cyndi Lauper's 'True Colours' or Mariah Carey in the background to a game of rugger.

Women suitably hair-cutted, we stuffed ourselves at an Ethiopian restaurant before heading back to Moshi. I want to move to Ethiopia, I love their food. I know, I was surprised too.

Sunday Franatee and I went for a run at the hottest part of the day. We did a halting 30 minutes, drenched in sweat, finding it hard to breath in the hot air and cope with the sun directly overhead. Oh well, at least there was a nice river and cornfields to run alongside. Got home, got cleaned up and headed to our American neighbours to meet up with another Kiwi volunteer and watch the NZ/Italy game.

What an awesome show-we were screaming at that NZ goal in the first 10 minutes or so. The rest of the game was just as entertaining. On ya Kiwis! Rum shots, soccer, friends and a good result for NZ, I couldn't be happier.

Friday, June 18, 2010

No Pain

I'm not sure what's going to win this year-diet or exercise. My diet here has tended to be very carbohydrate heavy (especially when the ridiculously cheap local beers are mixed in) and served in large meals alternating with long periods of nothing. I've found it challenging to source quality protein or healthy snacking alternatives here.

I gotta hope exercise saves the day. I haven't done this much regular biking since going to and from 'Write Price' supermarket as a produce boy way back in '95. Every morning Im a sweaty, panting wreck. Disturbingly, Franatee is starting to get her marathon stride and is really making me work to beat her home on the bikes. My endurance sux...

Im trying to get in the odd swim in the local (decent) swimming pool and sporadic runs up hill and down dale. I'm going to need to pick up the Rocky style training if I'm going to climb Kili in December...which I am close to booking.


Gotta pound on some carcasses!

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Legend Day

I've never been THAT much of a soccer watcher, that said people in Africa are obsessed with it and its been pretty cool watching some of the games in Africa's World Cup so far.

The mornign of NZ's first game of the 2010 cup, wifey and I biked off to work in NZ caps excited for the 230pm (our time) NZ/Slovakia match. People in the office were in good spirits, jibing with me about NZ's chances and wishing us well. While Francoise had to go drop off more animals with villagers, I took the afternoon off as leave, did a quick jog, then settled down with some mates to watch the game. Francoise turned up for the second half just in time to see Slovakia score, doh. 45 tense minutes later, we were all resigned to defeat before that AMAZING NZ goal in the last 30 seconds of the game.



The look on our American friend's faces went from resigned sympathy, to shock, to awe in the space of seconds as Francoise and I screamed in delight. We ran out into the street, waving our caps and shrieking about New Zealand to any passers by. One final impromptu haka at our house later and we are now confirmed football fans and hankering for the NZ/Italy match 530pm Sunday our time! There have been many high fives and hugs at work today, quite touched that our workmates are really happy for us.

GO THE ALL WHITES!

Monday, June 14, 2010

Wife on the move!

A few days ago was one of many big days for animal deliveries and I got to go along for the ride! I got told I was going and then jumped into a small truck crammed full of pigs and chickens (they were on separate levels of the truck so they wouldn't attack each other and I was in the cab section - not in the back). We then headed out on the road. The truck was from the US so I finally got to be in the driver's seat after getting my license three months ago (ha ha ha!).

The man in charge of the deliveries stopped off at his place to transfer the critters to a massive lorry so I was happy they had some more room, though pigs make a lot of noise when they get forced to go places they don't want to and we had a few chickens making a break for freedom, resulting in us having to chase them around the yard to catch them.

We headed to another farm to pick up more pigs and chickens. I was lucky enough to get to see two new born litters of piglets. They were so cute! Sadly one of them had died and it was kind of disturbing to see the mother try to eat it. (Awesome-Doug comment) She wasn't a very good pig mum and lay on her piglets a couple of times while we were there, despite her having heaps of room. The famer kept jumping into the pen to rescue them. Would be good if someone would invent a way for pigs to feed without getting squished - and I'm not suggesting sow crates!

I got the job of official pig and poultry counter which sounds easy, but keeping a record of animals going into a lorry while trying to stop them escaping was a bit tricky. After loading up we headed out to Rombo region, stopping very quickly for lunch (we had to get the animals delivered fast!). The group I was with got nyama choma which seems to be a favourite with people here. Basically it's a quick barbeque with grissly pieces of meat. There was some boiled green banana too so I had some of that. It tastes a bit like very mild parsnip. I think people in Samoa might eat something similar. While we were eating, the chickens kept peeking out of the lorry and I had to keep racing across the road to shoo them back in. They're very curious creatures.

Finally we made the journey to Mwika for the first delivery. The road was really bumpy and I felt sorry for the animals in the back - just as well the weather had cooled down a bit.

When we were arrived people cheered and sang. I felt so happy for them. They'd been waiting for a long time to get their animals and had built huts to house the animals months ago. It's hard because the organisation I'm working for relies on donor funding and sometimes we have to wait for a while because it comes through in installments. We can't buy animals or give the training until the funds are there so people in the villages have high hopes and then start losing heart because they have to wait.

My young colleague met us at Mwika. He'd been driving a separate lorry of animal feed and had arrived there before us and completed all the paper work with the people receiving animals.

When we opened the back of the lorry the pigs were resting on the floor of the truck and the chickens were pretty relaxed. Just was well because unloading them all was pretty crazy. People didn’t have any cages or vehicles to transport the animals and bags of feed home and our lorry was far too big to make pit stops down the little pathways to each person's house. People seemed to get by though and used pieces of flax and rope to guide their pigs home by tugging at their back leg. I felt a bit uncomfortable about this, especially because of all the squealing that the pigs were doing. I couldn't tell if they were in pain or it they were just annoyed. I helped unload the chickens, holding them upside down by the legs. It seemed a bit mean but they tended to relax when I held them that way.

With just over half the pigs and all the chickens now at their new stomping grounds we headed off to Kitirima King'achi to deliver the remaining animals. It was about 5:45 pm by this stage and it was starting to get dark. The days are really different here. It's light from 6am – 6pm and then suddenly it's totally dark. I guess being so close to the Equator.

My young work mate had arrived before us and was doing the paper work with the groups when we arrived. The people had been waiting most of the day but they were in high spirits to finally see their animals. (People here seem to just sit and wait very patiently. I guess part of it is because roads and modes of transport are not always reliable and people don’t have the modern time saving conveniences of people back home. I know I'm not known for my punctuality (e.g. late to my wedding etc) but I do feel really bad when I know I've kept people waiting, especially people who have HIV/AIDS. The first time I went out in the field and we were late, I raced around apologising to everyone. I don't think I'll ever feel comfortable with the waiting/late thing and just because I'm adjusting to a different culture doesn't mean I have to accept everything. I'm going to take on board the things I like, try to understand the things I don't like, and leave the rest.)

This group of people were better prepared and had ropes to tie their pigs' back legs. (I really do wonder if this is the best way to lead a pig around, I would have thought a rope around the neck or the middle would work better?). I might check this out on the internet and let my work mates know if there's a better way.

My young colleague asked me to take heaps of photos this time. So I went crazy with the camera. The only problem was, some young people from the villages had started to gather around to watch what was going on and seeing me with my camera they assumed I was a tourist and started asking me for money. They were actually really cheeky and my temper was wearing thin after the long day. Now I know by Tanzanian standards I'm wealthy, but I've also given up a good salary to come here to work for the year. It bothers me when wazungu (white people) are seen as money on legs. I think it probably doesn't help when short term tourists come here and hand out cash either. I'd much rather buy something from a local and support their business. Handouts are unsustainable, increase dependence and just dissempower local people who are putting their fate into the hands of a white person as well as reducing themselves to beggars. Anyway, I'll get off my soap-box now.

With all the animals dropped off we got back in the lorry and headed home. We had a welcome stop off at Kiboro Loni where we dropped off the lorry and my young work mate met me with our organisation's driver - and a car! The smooth 15 minute drive back to Moshi was luxury on my bottom after the bumpy Rombo roads. I arrived home around 9pm and I slept fofofo (like a log). 

Friday, June 11, 2010

Kick off!

Pretty happy I got to see the first match of the FIFA World Cup on the African continent. Just prior to the match starting, locals were racing around on the streets and dirt roads frantically trying to find bars or wherever to watch it. Franatee and I were comfy watching it at a mate's house. It was dead quiet outside with none of the usual background noise of people talking or moving around.

At half time I had to bike home quickly to grab some things....then I heard the deafening shouting and cheering from the houses next door as South Africa scored the first goal of the Cup...doh

Hope I get to see the All Whites game on 15th? I may be out and about that day, I know workmates are keen to watch it with Franatee or I

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Mount Doom

As people on Facebook already know, I kinda said to a guy from our UK head office who was asking for ideas to raise the charity's profile, that I could take a flag with the charity's name on it to the summit of Mt Kilimajaro for World AIDS Day (Dec 1). He really liked the idea (especially when I said I would pay for the ascent, as I was going to do it anyway). So, if our funds hold and if I can get a bit of training it, watch out for me waving a big 'AIDS' flag 5000 metres high on December
1st!


(gulp)

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

The Darkness

We've just come out of 3 days of no power...for some reason only to our house and the house next door! Staggering around the house, knocking into chairs and burning yourselves on candles after a cold shower gets old pretty fast.

Thank Mungu (God) for friends. We had a lovely dinner last night with our American chums and their pet pooch. Its nice having a slice of suburbia now and again in the middle of Africa. They mock us mercilessly about our kiwi 'ak-sints'...you will never know what a Kiwi sounds like until someone from Mississippi flawlessly imitates it.

Enjoying the Amazon Kindle electronic reader we bought to overcome the lack of physical books here. Yep, we pretty chilled these days. When we can see in the house that is.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

I am Gordon Ramsay

I was full of cuss words yesterday, trying to carry home a big wooden trojan horse AKA a free standing mosquito net holder. I'm sure I had the heavy end. Then I was so annoyed from that experience, I was a bit reckless on the bike on the way to work and came off it, sliding to a halt on the asphalt...ouch. Oh well, the new net holder is awesome, no more net hanging in our faces, IMPREGNABLE to mosquitos.

ps

Im hearing the weather in Welly back home has reached new levels of ridiculous sustained cold and rain. I feel for you guys. Last night I was chilly so I went with my dress shorts instead of stubbies as I sipped my vino in the garden bar under the African sunset.

Bwa ha ha ha ha ha!!