We flew out Sunday; the flight from Kilimanjaro took 1 hour, 40 minute and we got into Entebbe under a stormy sky. We met our tour guide and began the 40 minute drive towards Kampala. To the side of the Entebbe Airport was the old airport, which was the site of the famous 1976 raid by Israeli commandos to free the passengers of a hijacked Air France flight. Now, it is the site of a massive UN airbase; the biggest in East Africa. The plane geek in me loved to see the lumbering Russian built aircraft in their white UN paint jobs.
(UN Airbase)
We drove the hilly road (not used to hills after the constant flat of the Moshi/Arusha area) up towards the centre of Kampala. We noted a sign marking our (former) NGO’s Ugandan hospital complex. The vehicles in Uganda seemed a bit newer/better maintained than those in Tanzania. I also observed far more camouflaged, machine gun toting police than I was used to wandering about. I guiltily enjoyed our guide’s perfect English (the number 1 language of unity in Uganda) and the 80’s tunes playing on the car radio. We chatted about corruption in the recent election (‘that’s Africa’) and a recent serious lack of rain.
We got through traffic congestion and crazy 'roundabouts' to arrive at the ‘Holiday Express’ budget hotel. We chilled the rest of the night.
(downtown Kampala)
Monday, we left at 730am as we would have a long, long drive to reach our destination, the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest way off in the South West of the country. Bwindi is a 300 sq km ancient rainforest that is home to half of the world's remaining mountain gorillas (ie 350 or so of 700). We drove past wetlands and papyrus filled swamps till we got to the actual Equator for a photo opportunity.
We even watched an experiment showcasing the different directions water turns as you pour it down a funnel on either side of the Equator. The Coriolis effect (look it up). Still not convinced it’s not all a hoax.
We drove on through nondescript towns, past long horned Ankole cattle (seem in better condition than livestock in Tanzania), bustling fruit markets and past the Lake Mburu National Park (sorry only zebra and impala, locals poisoned all the lions).
As the day went on we got further southwest and higher up-getting towards 1800 metres. The roads got increasingly rougher and the surrounds more beautiful.
Saw a hill full of quartz glittering in the sun. Lots of waving, dancing, friendly, begging children. Increasing green hills and gullies covered in a patchwork of demarcated terraces and little cultivated plots. We stopped for a photo opportunity by one amazing vista. A ‘hidden treasure’ as our guide put it, indeed.
(wife takes in the view)
(you can see the terraces on the hills behind)
Uganda, at least what I was seeing of it was uber scenic. I liked the orderly beauty of the terraces. Didn’t like so much the many eucalyptus trees everywhere (imported from OZ, used for firewood, boat building etc).
Send me to the Congo, I’m free to leave…
‘Congo’ by Genesis
As dusk approached, we were drawing nearer to both the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and um, a border with er, the Democratic Republic of Congo. If you aren’t familiar with the history/reputation/plight of that country, go read Wikipedia. Despite our guide’s assurances that the Lord’s Resistance Army (again, look it up) were no longer in DRC and that he took cross-border gorilla safaris into DRC all the time, I grew a bit pensive. We drove past tea plantations and through a village (Butagota?) where smugglers used to go to and fro from DRC. Only 'used to'? I asked the guide how porous the border was with DRC. Very porous, he seemed to indicate.
I was startled when the guide pointed to a nearby hill and said that was DRC right there. A short 30 minute walk and you’d be in it.
(that hill is DRC)
I suddenly clicked how close we were to the border. Cold irrational sweat.
(the closest point to DRC...its just past those banana palms in the background))
Interlude
Sigh, ok Im going on about DRC a bit much. I'm really not trying to create a selective, sensational, danger focussed interpretation of trekking around Africa. Okay, yes I am. To an extent. I like a bit of adrenaline. And yes, I am an entertainer/pathological attention seeker. But in all seriousness, what I have found on travels to places like Israel and such is that, the chance of something bad happening to you if you be sensible is actually, really small. What am I trying to say...there are pockets of danger in Africa, that I find both intriguing and scary. Pockets exist in every country on earth. Avoid the pockets. Not the whole country/continent. But don't take a blanket and picnic lunch into DRC. It's a pocket.
At about 7pm, we arrived weary at Buhoma, the entrance settlement to the forest. Gorilla themed signs where everywhere in town, great to see the locals recognizing the economic potential of those apes. Our lodging was in a group of bandas (huts) near the entrance to the forest.
We had a good view of the forest from our dining area…wow pretty um dense.
Our lodgings were pretty primitive but they got the job done. I was still lapsing into talking Swahili to Ugandans to their bemusement or blank stares. (They can understand Swahili but they don’t seem to relish speaking it with me with the same gusto as Tanzanians.)
Under brilliant stars and lightening flashes in the distance and after making sure the door was locked against the Lord’s Resistance Army, we called it a night. Big gorilla-ry day tomorrow! It's been a long time since insurgents from Rwanda or DRC have caused serious havoc in Bwindi Forest. Peaceful, as. Just gotta hope it stays that way. Also hope it doesn't rain (we didn't bring raincoats, surely the name 'rainforest' is just for show...)
To be continued...
You and Franatee be careful Doug!
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