Pangani Part I

Almost 5 months in and Franatee and I are beat. So when our American friends offered to take us to Pangani on the coast for a long weekend (and our first leave!) we jumped at the chance.

Pangani is situated on the mouth of the river of the same name on the East Coast of Tanzania. Its a village of about 8000 people with a strong historical Arabic influence. About 6 hours drive from Moshi.

Pangani used to be a historical trade hub both for goods coming in from the interior (down the river I think), as well as um, slaves. Yes the slave trade was big in Pangani. Lots of slaves and ivory heading out from Pangani to the Arabian and European Markets.

Nowadays, Pangani is more well known for the pristine coast running north and south of the village and amazing sea food. We planned to stay at the Peponi Beach Resort just north of the town.

So after a wolfed down pancake breakfast (cheers mke) we got on the move. Boys in the front, ladies and a dog in the back. I mixed a drink for myself (Konyagi and Fanta) and settled back to enjoy the ride. Set to Stevie Wonder’s ‘70’s albums of course. The drive to Pangani via Same (been there for work) and Tanga takes you through the vast expanse of the Masaai Plateau past the Pare and Usimbara Mountain ranges. It’s a nice road trip.

We stopped for a bite before hitting the road again...and abruptly stopping again for a Police checkpoint. A cop accused us (waving a UN donated radar gun that conveniently does not show the date or time of the recorded speed) of doing a crazy speed in a 50km area, when we were clearly going well under the limit. I’m sure the fact we were a car of wazungu had nothing to do with it. I have heard some cops here scam people by using a previously recorded speed on the gun, demand the 20 000 shilling fine, pocket the cash and tear up the receipt once the driver has gone. It creeps me out you pay cash fines directly to cops here. Some firm arguing and we were on our way with no fine.

We passed through the formerly bustling coastal port of Tanga. The place used to export a lot of sisal (a plant fibre for twine and ropes). The coast definitely has a different vibe to inland Moshi. The locals are a lot darker (maybe the crazy sun out here, I hear it is too hot to be comfortable later in the year), buffer (a fish diet? The fact everyone is on cycles?) and more Muslim influenced (every was wearing the caps and white robes).

We followed a dirt road for a bit and got to the Resort. Despite being a little overcast it was still surreal and cool to see the beach, waving coconut palms etc. We had a swim in the Indian ocean (pretty warm!) then chilled out with darts and cards. The seafood for dinner was unreal...that crayfish blew my mind. So fresh.

The next morning we got up ridiculously early to see the dawn (5am whereas the sun actually rises around 6am). Still, nice to see a huge sky filled with strange constellations. Franatee went back to bed and I settled down with the Ipod (Bowie) to wait for sunrise. it was nice to see the fishing dhows (East African boats) getting underway for the day's activities. The day dawned clear and blue.

After a functional breakfast, we selected our snorkeling gear from the office and got ready for a big adventure out to a reef as well as a small sand island. We waded out (in shoes as the rocks and sea urchins were sharp) at low tide to the dhow that was to take us. It was nice to be on a boat made from local wood and rope, that moved on wind power and people power.(Arr me hearties!!). (Franatee says that dhows look like old fashioned quill pens writing messages on the ocean)

The water was a little murky, but we anchored near a reef to try out the snorkeling. Franatee was a little unsure at first and unused to breathing through a snorkel- not being the merman I am- but she soon got into it and was flippering around like a pro. It was like swimming in a tropical fish tank; we saw more colourful fish in the warm waters than you could shake a stick at. And yes, I saw the 'Nemo' fish hiding in its anemone. No sign of the highly poisonous Lion Fish we were warned not to touch if we liked being alive.

After a time, we got back on the boat and sailed off to a small sand island 5km off shore that is uncovered and covered again by the tide everyday. It was a beautiful white sand spot with sapphire blue water.

We pitched a tarpaulin on the islet and while some had lunch and drinks I was desperate to get back in the water. After seeing some more tropical fish and a mean looking thin white eel, I saw a black and white Banded Sea Snake gliding along the bottom! Loved it, especially as I remembered writing about Sea Snakes years ago for a primary school project. (Fun fact-the placid though deadly Banded Sea Snake's neuro-toxic venom is 10X as deadly as a Black Mamba's!)

The wife joined me in the water as we swam hand in hand, spotting more fish. The finale was the school of black fish with white spots Franatee dove down towards and the little yellow and black striped fishes that curiously followed us all the way back to shore (must have thought I was a whale).

Also managed to pet one of the two octopi, the sailors caught diving off the boat (tonight's supper).

I had been warned that the island disappeared pretty fast under the incoming tide and sure enough as we all beat a hasty retreat clambering up on the rocking dhow, the waves came in and the islet almost completely disappeared in about 10 minutes. Freaky.

I made sure I was the last white person back on the boat. I just want that known for the record!

To Be Continued...