'All villages end in the mountain'

That's what a long time Moshi resident told me when I was asking about the geography of the region.

The Mountain, in a real sense, gives life to the town of Moshi and the region. It gives water to the town ie all the rain run off, regulates the local climate and helps the local economy with the steady stream of tourists and would be mountaineers. According to Maasai belief, Enkai (ie god) lives on Kilimanjaro where he dispenses wealth, rain and fine weather. I have yet to confirm this.

From a day to day perspective, the Mountain is 4/5 times shrouded in cloud and all you can usually see behind the town is a steadily rising green and brown patchwork of villages, farmland and cornfields slowly rising and ending hazily in cloud. But then occasionally you'll get the odd time (usually in the morning or night) when BAM suddenly there's this big brown/black brooding thing with a snow top hanging over the town. And you remember, 'oh yeah, cool, I live near Mount Kilimanjaro'.

This morning, was a quick breakfast, get on the bikes, feel tired, can't be bothered with it today sorta morning, then as we started coasting down the road to work BAM behind us was a beautiful clear view of the Mountain. It does raise the spirits to see it.

Wifey and I have paid a deposit on a 6 day assault on Kili on the Machame route, commencing December 20th. So that means Christmas on the roof of Africa! We had planned on hitting the summit for World AIDS Day for some publicity for our NGO but it was more expensive to do it then. I'm sure I can still do some public relations work on the summit with flags etc. Just hope Santa can find me...

The Machame route which starts on the south western side of the Mountain is one of the tougher routes but also one of the more scenic. I gather there is a rock wall here and there to clamber up vertically. I have plenty of time to train (ulp).


(Beware of strange mountains lurking outside properties and peering in)

In sickness and in health

Franatee and I visited a colleague who is convalescing in a large local hospital. The hospital was sadly all too full. Patients sitting, standing, lying on the grass, milling at the front of the building, crammed two a piece on stretchers in hallways...

Two white people come straight from work in Wellington-esque work suits look like astronauts from another planet wandering the constricted, confused hallways. Our workmate was really touched to see us.

I hate hospitals.

The Dougshank Redemption

Somehow the wife cajoled me to do an hour uphill run with her on Sunday. I'm destroyed, my knees are gone. Its humiliating to have locals laughing at you from the side that 'mke wangu' (your wife) is trailing far ahead of your panting, gasping hide. Still, feel better for it and there were nice views as we trotted towards the hilly outskirts of town.

We have a couple of fresh faced students with us from Cornell university (ie in the States) with us for 4 weeks. Its pretty funny how grizzled Franatee and I feel now at the 3 month mark as the new 'inmates' come in. Africa, as always, is extremely enriching, but it can also be damn tiring and frustrating...it has its own pace and rhythm. A lot of behaviours, systems, helps we take for granted in the office environment back home are simply alien here... Pole Pole (slowly, slowly)

Still, making some gains. Just want to make sure we leave behind some sustainable skills and tools. At least I am personally developing...look how far I've come-

(South Africa circa 2008)


(Tanzania, circa two days ago)


Roaw!

'Taking a break here, Boss'

Have we really been here 3 months already? It's going fast. With volunteering, like prison, you only do two days: the day you go in and the day you come out.

'Going back to work now, Boss'



Update-today we walked past a real life chain gang on a lunch break. Guys in orange shirts in the hot noon sun clearing vegetation while guards watched. We said hi, they asked for smokes, we declined as I don't think the guards would have been too impressed with muzungu presents...

Dat was a good weekend

Franatee had arranged to go into Arusha Saturday to pick up our volunteering allowance and also have her hair done, with a friend, by an ex-pat hair dresser (who just happens to be originally from Auckland). While she was going there I was keen to strike out alone and check out a waterfall near the foothills of Kili about 50km away by daladala (minibus). However, after being mercilessly mocked by my wife as a girly man who wants to sit under a waterfall alone and write poetry, I succumbed to marital bullying and went with my wife to Arusha...no waterfall for me.

The hairdresser was situated in this massive colonial style coffee plantation, adjacent to a rugby field where a motley gaggle of white ex-pat folks watched teams playing. While the ladies had their hair done, I hung with my mate John by the field had beer in hand watched Mauritius limbering up for a rugby match with Kenya. A sound system was booming out some of the worst soft music I have heard in Africa yet. You cannot play Cyndi Lauper's 'True Colours' or Mariah Carey in the background to a game of rugger.

Women suitably hair-cutted, we stuffed ourselves at an Ethiopian restaurant before heading back to Moshi. I want to move to Ethiopia, I love their food. I know, I was surprised too.

Sunday Franatee and I went for a run at the hottest part of the day. We did a halting 30 minutes, drenched in sweat, finding it hard to breath in the hot air and cope with the sun directly overhead. Oh well, at least there was a nice river and cornfields to run alongside. Got home, got cleaned up and headed to our American neighbours to meet up with another Kiwi volunteer and watch the NZ/Italy game.

What an awesome show-we were screaming at that NZ goal in the first 10 minutes or so. The rest of the game was just as entertaining. On ya Kiwis! Rum shots, soccer, friends and a good result for NZ, I couldn't be happier.

No Pain

I'm not sure what's going to win this year-diet or exercise. My diet here has tended to be very carbohydrate heavy (especially when the ridiculously cheap local beers are mixed in) and served in large meals alternating with long periods of nothing. I've found it challenging to source quality protein or healthy snacking alternatives here.

I gotta hope exercise saves the day. I haven't done this much regular biking since going to and from 'Write Price' supermarket as a produce boy way back in '95. Every morning Im a sweaty, panting wreck. Disturbingly, Franatee is starting to get her marathon stride and is really making me work to beat her home on the bikes. My endurance sux...

Im trying to get in the odd swim in the local (decent) swimming pool and sporadic runs up hill and down dale. I'm going to need to pick up the Rocky style training if I'm going to climb Kili in December...which I am close to booking.


Gotta pound on some carcasses!

Legend Day

I've never been THAT much of a soccer watcher, that said people in Africa are obsessed with it and its been pretty cool watching some of the games in Africa's World Cup so far.

The mornign of NZ's first game of the 2010 cup, wifey and I biked off to work in NZ caps excited for the 230pm (our time) NZ/Slovakia match. People in the office were in good spirits, jibing with me about NZ's chances and wishing us well. While Francoise had to go drop off more animals with villagers, I took the afternoon off as leave, did a quick jog, then settled down with some mates to watch the game. Francoise turned up for the second half just in time to see Slovakia score, doh. 45 tense minutes later, we were all resigned to defeat before that AMAZING NZ goal in the last 30 seconds of the game.



The look on our American friend's faces went from resigned sympathy, to shock, to awe in the space of seconds as Francoise and I screamed in delight. We ran out into the street, waving our caps and shrieking about New Zealand to any passers by. One final impromptu haka at our house later and we are now confirmed football fans and hankering for the NZ/Italy match 530pm Sunday our time! There have been many high fives and hugs at work today, quite touched that our workmates are really happy for us.

GO THE ALL WHITES!