Nothing much to report this weekend. I had contemplated a trip to a lake but felt lazy, plus mke had been in the field all last week so we thought we'd just chill.
Mke and I were on dog sitting duties for our American friends. They are leaving soon to live near Lake Victoria, sob, it has been nice to have neighbours to hang out with...
um um
Ramadan is underway so extended calls to prayer booming out sporadically around the neighbourhood.
um
Saw a pair of emerald green sunbirds eating (drinking?) nectar off the flowers near work. Much cuter than the pterodactyl-like Maribou storks flapping their 2-3 metre wingspans over the wife and I and scaring the hell out of us.
er
Avatar is not as mindblowing in 2D on a laptop screen...
that's all I got...
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Thursday, August 12, 2010
A good yet depressing work chat
Typing after a fascinating chat with a co-worker who is demoralised as to why the HIV/AIDS infection rate in sub-saharan Africa remains above that of the number of people treated. Why is the prevention message not working here? AIDS is not a new thing...Uganda has been hitting the epidemic with all guns blazing since the 1990s, a success story in a lot of ways.
I liked being able to give my frank (condescending?) muzungu perspective. My glib answer is that many of (if not the majority) women here are still not empowered to say 'no' to dangerous situations. That's a polite way of me saying I am unhappy with how women are traditionally treated here. Add this to a culture that traditionally lauds men who have multiple, concurrent partners and...off you go. It aint rocket science to me.
My co-worker wholeheartedly agrees with my detached assessment. I mean I am detached. I get to go home to lattes, healthcare and movies after this short stint.
I bought and drank 2 red bulls in a row yesterday. That is an unthinkable luxury to my co-worker and the other staff.
He has to live with an ongoing nightmare epidemic in his country, that is not abating. He told me he is scared in 50 years, all the Africans will be gone due to AIDS. I'm not sure of his maths but I dunno...where does this all end? Its such a vile, expensive, gradual, horrible, wasteful way to die. Lets not forget that as we focus on the positives of helping people with HIV/AIDs have a good quality of life.
We need a vaccine like now.
I liked being able to give my frank (condescending?) muzungu perspective. My glib answer is that many of (if not the majority) women here are still not empowered to say 'no' to dangerous situations. That's a polite way of me saying I am unhappy with how women are traditionally treated here. Add this to a culture that traditionally lauds men who have multiple, concurrent partners and...off you go. It aint rocket science to me.
My co-worker wholeheartedly agrees with my detached assessment. I mean I am detached. I get to go home to lattes, healthcare and movies after this short stint.
I bought and drank 2 red bulls in a row yesterday. That is an unthinkable luxury to my co-worker and the other staff.
He has to live with an ongoing nightmare epidemic in his country, that is not abating. He told me he is scared in 50 years, all the Africans will be gone due to AIDS. I'm not sure of his maths but I dunno...where does this all end? Its such a vile, expensive, gradual, horrible, wasteful way to die. Lets not forget that as we focus on the positives of helping people with HIV/AIDs have a good quality of life.
We need a vaccine like now.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Rwanda's voting 'largely accurate'
http://edition.cnn.com/2010/WORLD/africa/08/10/rwanda.election/index.html?hpt=T2#fbid=78I3E4PCL7H&wom=false
Stability for Rwanda's economic growth is important. Very pleasing to see the election is ticking along peacefully. I still hope to pop into Rwanda before I'm done in Africa, so Im happy if its all peaceful.
I couldn't possibly comment on actions the leading party is alleged to have undertaken to stifle opposition parties and retain control in the run up to the election. Where ethnic/political dissent can end in violence and the self-destruction of nations in Africa, it does provoke an interesting question:
what is more important for an African nation in the long run-stability,iron control and engrained corruption or fractured ethnic/political viewpoints which can mean free expression but also can mean civil unrest and bloodshed.
But as said I can't really comment.
Monday, August 9, 2010
BIRTHDAY MISSION
Survived the daily almost-getting-creamed-by-a-bus on the bike and a power blackout yesterday to resume da blog today.
Last week, a kiwi volunteer was celebrating her birthday in Arusha with some other Kiwi youngsters, so the wife and I thought what the heck-ROAD TRIP. Despite misgivings about turning up to the A-Town bus terminal at usiiko ie night, we jumped on a bus after work Friday. A nice dusk drive with a good view of Mt Meru as we got nearer. We got in around 7pm, met one kiwi at the stop, grabbed the beers, got round to the party, grabbed the guitar, turned on the tunes and got down to celebrating. The birthday girl in question actually turned up fashionably late, having to motorcycle/speed taxi down from her digs in Kiratu (near Ngorongoro Crater).
I begged...I mean we all decided to go out to Colobus, the local karaoke bar. We rolled there, hooked up with more Kiwis and others from the language school at USA river (ie the school my wife and I went to in April) and off the night went. Pulled out some karaoke favourites...gotta love the local karaoke hog who told Franatee a song was hers when I had in fact picked it for us. Ugly. Not as ugly as watching my wife and female chums on the d-floor get swarmed by local guys. Ah, all pretty harmless, I like to play the part of the ultra possessive hubby and have Tanzanians come up to me to apologise solemnly for dancing with my wife. We stayed out till 4am, then crashed on the floor of the flat on cushions, ah student days...
Woke up to a cold shower and randomly ACDC's 'Thunderstruck'. After a Chipsy Mayai for brekkie, wifey and I went and saw 'Toy Story 3' at the Arusha cinema. There were a wazungu volunteer couple taking a lot of street kids to see the movie. Not sure if I think that's an awesome gesture or whether it creates a positive yet passive experience for the kids involving an American film (about toys none of those kids will ever be able to afford) hosted by the whitey volunteers. Would a Tanzanian hosting a Tanzanian film be more empowering? Or am I over thinking it? Ah, development.
er...Rex the dinosaur is my favourite.
After the film, bused back to Moshi (enduring an all too common fist fight between the bus driver and guy on the street that almost ends in the pedestrian dying when the driver of the bus drives off dragging the pedestrian by his shirt in the way of oncoming traffic).
Sunday, chilled most of the day playing the Nintendo DS, did one gutbuster 30 minute run that day so I didn't feel too guilty for playing Mario games all day.
So a fun weekend, gotta love those kiwis.
Also, a workmate saw I was a bit dejected yesterday about a piece of work that was not moving anywhere and said to me 'this is just me friendly speaking...but you have done a lot. you have done a lot' Got a bit misty, nice to know I'm not a complete waste of a volunteer branded tee shirt.
Friday, August 6, 2010
The Doug Knight
"I keep this city safe…even if it’s safe by just one person…and I do not ever give in or give up” Detective Comics 853
It's been a tough week. A lot of introspection as to 'what am I actually achieving' versus the enormity of the ingrained apathy, poverty and maddening bureaucracy here. Not to lay blame on external forces and duck responsibility but man, its taking a lot longer than I would like to get some key things done.
Yet some fundamental things keep me going:
-that I am sharing the good and bad times with my wife.
-a belief (however deluded) that I am here because I am meant to be here.
-the exponential amount of life experience, dare I say personal growth, I am getting from this time even from the daily frustrations
-that the good always counterbalances the bad here. For every instance of corruption or negligence, there is a smiling child, locals sharing a joke with us, a beautiful sunset or a fun time on safari.
-finally, small positive changes can always be made to anything. One thing I am proud of achieving here so far involved directly improving the quality of life for just one sick young girl who may have otherwise fallen through the cracks. Just one amongst thousands. But Im very proud of dat.
Bring it on Africa, Dougman is still standing!
Monday, August 2, 2010
Through the Looking Glass
`But I don't want to go among mad people,' Alice remarked.
`Oh, you can't help that,' said the Cat: `we're all mad here. I'm mad. You're mad.'
`How do you know I'm mad?' said Alice.
`You must be,' said the Cat, `or you wouldn't have come here.'
Alice in Wonderland
Just sat through an extended meeting discussing how to spend thousands and thousands of donor dollars as fast as possible to targets/activities that no one seems to know how to achieve in the local context. Not a lot of interest in monitoring or evaluation either- an uncharitable viewpoint would be that once a body gets the $$, the incentive for follow up isn't that strong.
I have heard horror stories from people not given to exaggeration of aid not going where it should and the resulting human cost. Its all a bit surreal.
So, if you can't tell I'm feeling a bit low today. But I guess in response to some hits you either throw in the towel or keep taking da punishment like Rocky and moving forward. Some days you feel like 'We are the World' here, others you feel isolated..least mke and I are here for each other.
`Oh, you can't help that,' said the Cat: `we're all mad here. I'm mad. You're mad.'
`How do you know I'm mad?' said Alice.
`You must be,' said the Cat, `or you wouldn't have come here.'
Alice in Wonderland
Just sat through an extended meeting discussing how to spend thousands and thousands of donor dollars as fast as possible to targets/activities that no one seems to know how to achieve in the local context. Not a lot of interest in monitoring or evaluation either- an uncharitable viewpoint would be that once a body gets the $$, the incentive for follow up isn't that strong.
I have heard horror stories from people not given to exaggeration of aid not going where it should and the resulting human cost. Its all a bit surreal.
So, if you can't tell I'm feeling a bit low today. But I guess in response to some hits you either throw in the towel or keep taking da punishment like Rocky and moving forward. Some days you feel like 'We are the World' here, others you feel isolated..least mke and I are here for each other.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
The Weekend that Was
Uganda's Got Talent
Saturday, I spent a bit of time just reading a novel on the Kindle. That night we went out with some friends to Glacier, an outdoor bar, for a drink...only to find an exorbitant cover price on the door. We were assured an amazing Ugandan dance troupe was performing tonight and it would well worth our time and pesa. Once we got inside what we found was a near deserted amphitheatre, a pregnant half starved dog and a crude stage with some bedsheets as a back drop. We were the only wazungu at a local talent contest proudly put on by 'Empire Records'...no Ugandans in sight.
We were 'entertained' by some horrifically poor-even for the developing world-hopefuls including out of tune crooning love singers, break dancing that looked like the result of needing to go to the bathroom really badly and Eminiem rapper wannabes. Maybe it was the fact we were lied to to elicit our cover charge that made me a little bitter. At least Franatee got applause doing some impromptu moves coming back to our seats from a visit to the bathroom.
As I went down to the river to pray
Much better singing at the local church the next morning. One of the things I will miss most when I leave here is the churches packed with young people and the amazing singing of the congregation (to the tribal drums!) that accompanies the service. Bliss.
Brains.....Brains!!!
It drizzled on Sunday-no epic runs sadly-so stayed indoors and read (by read I mean played my Nintendo DS all day).
Had a doctor friend over for dinner that night...It was a relaxed night EXCEPT I really wish we had not discussed cerebral oedema at length (at my continual prompting). If a person ascending Kilimanjaro does not make an effort to take it slow and acclimatize to the lack of oxygen at thousands of feet above sea level,one of the risks they face is their brain swelling. Basically, if you start getting signs that this condition is happening (constant vomiting, disorientation-please no drinking jokes)you either descend rapidly or you die pretty quick. Or maybe just get paralysed from hernias to your spinal chord if you are lucky.
I thought the daily physical exhaustion, lack of air to my lungs, temperatures that can be anything between 1 degree below to 25 degrees below near the top (with wind chill) would have been enough to worry about without my brain re-enacting the scene from 'The Running Man' with the exploding neck collars..
Two final creature related updates
-Saturday I heard word on the street a 2 metre croc was seen in or near the hot spring Franatee and I swam in a month or do ago. Crikey.
Finally, I head in Sunday's Paper that local authorities in the Manyara region are pleading with locals not to succumb to hysteria and blame the actions of a group of rogue hyena on sorcery. The hyena have attacked/mauled a few villagers recently. Yes, it must be witchcraft, not the fact of humans encroaching ever increasingly on the habitat of the established wildlife. That's just crazy talk.
Saturday, I spent a bit of time just reading a novel on the Kindle. That night we went out with some friends to Glacier, an outdoor bar, for a drink...only to find an exorbitant cover price on the door. We were assured an amazing Ugandan dance troupe was performing tonight and it would well worth our time and pesa. Once we got inside what we found was a near deserted amphitheatre, a pregnant half starved dog and a crude stage with some bedsheets as a back drop. We were the only wazungu at a local talent contest proudly put on by 'Empire Records'...no Ugandans in sight.
We were 'entertained' by some horrifically poor-even for the developing world-hopefuls including out of tune crooning love singers, break dancing that looked like the result of needing to go to the bathroom really badly and Eminiem rapper wannabes. Maybe it was the fact we were lied to to elicit our cover charge that made me a little bitter. At least Franatee got applause doing some impromptu moves coming back to our seats from a visit to the bathroom.
As I went down to the river to pray
Much better singing at the local church the next morning. One of the things I will miss most when I leave here is the churches packed with young people and the amazing singing of the congregation (to the tribal drums!) that accompanies the service. Bliss.
Brains.....Brains!!!
It drizzled on Sunday-no epic runs sadly-so stayed indoors and read (by read I mean played my Nintendo DS all day).
Had a doctor friend over for dinner that night...It was a relaxed night EXCEPT I really wish we had not discussed cerebral oedema at length (at my continual prompting). If a person ascending Kilimanjaro does not make an effort to take it slow and acclimatize to the lack of oxygen at thousands of feet above sea level,one of the risks they face is their brain swelling. Basically, if you start getting signs that this condition is happening (constant vomiting, disorientation-please no drinking jokes)you either descend rapidly or you die pretty quick. Or maybe just get paralysed from hernias to your spinal chord if you are lucky.
I thought the daily physical exhaustion, lack of air to my lungs, temperatures that can be anything between 1 degree below to 25 degrees below near the top (with wind chill) would have been enough to worry about without my brain re-enacting the scene from 'The Running Man' with the exploding neck collars..
Two final creature related updates
-Saturday I heard word on the street a 2 metre croc was seen in or near the hot spring Franatee and I swam in a month or do ago. Crikey.
Finally, I head in Sunday's Paper that local authorities in the Manyara region are pleading with locals not to succumb to hysteria and blame the actions of a group of rogue hyena on sorcery. The hyena have attacked/mauled a few villagers recently. Yes, it must be witchcraft, not the fact of humans encroaching ever increasingly on the habitat of the established wildlife. That's just crazy talk.
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